Paddy Fields Introduction

Like them or loathe them, it's difficult to wargame Vietnam without at some time or another having to place paddy fields on the wargames table. Since rice was the principal food crop of Vietnam, paddy fields were found in almost every conceivable location and could be found singularly, dispersed or, as in the Delta, for as far as the eye could see. I decided that I would make some paddy fields but, instead of just making one or two, I would make a whole load of them so that I could afford myself options with regard to placement on the tabletop.

What I wanted to achieve was a geometric pattern of fields that could be assembled in any number of combinations (Figure 1). I sketched out my idea on paper, cut out the various shapes and then checked to see how well they all fitted together. After making a few adjustments I then transferred the designs onto a hardboard sheet and cut them out using a jig-saw.

Another consideration was how to construct the berms surrounding each field. I decided that these had to be able to abutt each other without leaving a 'trenchline' between fields. The answer to this was to use what we call in the UK 'beading' - this is a length of wood precut to a particular shape. In this case, the beading had two flat sides, at right-angles to each other, and a curved outer edge (Figure 2). Using mitre joints, I would lay this all around the outer edge of each field.

Materials

Having decided that my design principles were workable, I then proceeded to the construction phase. For terrain bases I would normally use a sheet of MDF since this is extremely durable and does not warp. However, I had no MDF but I did have a sheet of 1/16th hardboard which would be OK although sometimes subject to warping - I gambled on the fact that once the beading was in place, this would act to prevent the base from any warp.

So, working from my plans and using a jig-saw, I cut out about a dozen varied geometric shapes of different sizes from the board. Several of the pieces that I cut were then given one or two rounded edges, again, this was simply to break up the monotony and add some variety.

Using Beading for Berms

Now the fun really started. First of all, I have to admit to not being a particularly good carpenter when it comes to cutting mitres. Secondly, I did not really have the right saw for the job and, as a consequence, I did not anticipate the mitre joints to be too exact - I wasn't wrong in my assumption!

Taking each individual 'field' in turn, I measured each side and cut a length of the beading to fit. Since each piece of beading had to join up against another, I used mitre joints and glued each length into place using a standard wood glue (Figure 3). Because my measuring was sometimes not too good, or else my mitre joints were poorly cut (oftentimes both applied) many of the lengths did not fit flush with each other, resulting in 'gaps' between pieces. Resigned to this, I waited until all the glue was dry and simply filled the gaps using some Das Putty modelling clay. Once this was dry, I was ready to start texturing and painting each of the fields.

Adding Details and Painting

Before I commenced any painting, I decided to place some fixed foliage and to break up the regularity of the berms at the waterline. I placed das putty at various places around the perimeter of the paddy and embedded foliage in to this. For the reeds I used the bristles from a brush - these are natural fibres and are easy to work with. The other foliage that I used was from aquatic plants made of plastic - these do not take paint very well since they are quite greasy but I find that using them in their natural colouration is fine (Figure 4).

Once the putty banks and embedded foliage was dry and hard, it was time to start painting. I painted a plain block colour of brown to represent the water of the paddy field. Colour photographs tend to show quite clearly how 'brown' the water actually is - it could almost be painted black.

The berm itself was also painted in a simple block green colour.

To give some indication of depth and to indicate the banks continuing on below the waterline, I used an old brush to stipple a lighter brown around the periphery of the paddy field (Figure 5).

I have made paddy fields in the past using different techniques that required the placing of each clump of rice stalks and thought this to be too time consuming even though it looked good. This time I was going to try painting the vegetation to appear as if it were just below or floating on the surface. The effect that I achieved is not as good as earlier attempts and makes the paddy look more like a pond with a carpet of algea but nonetheless the final result is acceptable and, in the context of the game, is unmistakable as a paddy field.

Again, using an old brush I stippled various colours of green onto the surface of the paddy. The objective here was, as in much of my work, to achieve an end result that was representative rather than photographic.

Detailing the Berms, Water and Water-Line

I carried out some extra work on the berms since these were quite plain at this stage. First, I painted a 'mud line' around the paddy that was just above the waterline. This gave an area of transition between the greens on the berms and the paddy field proper (Figure 6).

Then, in order to break up the smoothness of the surface on the berms, I repainted the berms to the 'mud line' using textured paint (Colour Party 'Basetex'). This left a rougher surface which I subsequently drybrushed using yellow.

The water surface was then painted with a clear gloss varnish in order to give it that 'wet' look - take care when you do this and let your other paint dry out fully first since mine was 'lifted' and 'dragged' by the varnish brushing.

Finally, I added some more bush-like vegetation around the edges of the paddy field for effect and that was it - finally finished.

Paddy Fields and Incoming!

Depending on the season in which the action takes place, paddy fields are in one of two states; either dry or wet.

Dry paddy fields (with a raised dyke, or berm, surrounding the field), do not block LOS. Troops in base to base contact with the edge of the field receive protective cover from direct fire only (representing the use of the berm as protective cover). Troops not in contact with the edge of the field are treated as if in the open. Dry paddy fields are passable to all vehicles.

Wet paddy fields (representing flooded fields with crops during the rice growing season) are treated as fields for fire and LOS. Wheeled vehicles are not permitted to enter wet paddy fields. Tracked vehicles may enter them but must test for bogging down each time they move or pivot.

Completed Paddy Field and US Rifle Squad

US Rifle Squad prepares to cross the finished paddy field

Close-up of US Rifle Squad sheltering behind a paddy field berm. Note the 'mud-line' that is clearly discernable.

US Rifle Squad crosses the paddy and takes up position - guess these guys will not be too happy being up to their waist in this muck